Description

Behenate/Eicosadioate, also known as 1,2,3-Propanetriol esters with docosanoic acid and eicosanedioic acid, is a specialized ester blend used in the cosmetic and personal care industry. It is valued for its emollient, skin-conditioning, and viscosity-controlling properties, making it a beneficial ingredient in various skincare, haircare, and makeup products.

Chemical Composition and Structure
Behenate/Eicosadioate consists of esters formed by the reaction of glycerol (1,2,3-propanetriol) with docosanoic acid (behenic acid) and eicosanedioic acid. These esters provide a range of functional benefits in cosmetic formulations. The specific composition includes:

Docosanoic Acid (Behenic Acid): Known for its emollient and conditioning properties.
Eicosanedioic Acid: Provides additional emollient and structural benefits.
Glycerol (1,2,3-Propanetriol): Acts as a humectant and moisturizer.
Physical Properties
Behenate/Eicosadioate typically appears as a waxy solid or semi-solid at room temperature with a mild, characteristic odor. It is lipid-soluble, making it easy to incorporate into various oil-based and emulsion formulations.

Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications
Emollient: Behenate/Eicosadioate provides a rich, smooth feel to formulations, helping to soften and soothe the skin.

Skin Conditioning: It conditions the skin, enhancing its texture and overall appearance. It is suitable for all skin types, particularly dry and sensitive skin.

Viscosity Controlling: This ester blend helps to thicken and stabilize formulations, improving their texture and application properties.

Film-Forming: It forms a protective barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture and protect against environmental stressors.

Hair Care: In haircare products, Behenate/Eicosadioate conditions and smooths the hair, improving its manageability and shine.

Makeup: It is used in makeup products to enhance the texture, spreadability, and long-lasting wear of formulations.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Behenate/Eicosadioate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types. As a synthesized ingredient derived from natural sources, it poses minimal risk to the environment when sourced and disposed of responsibly. Utilizing Behenate/Eicosadioate supports sustainable practices by promoting the use of efficient and effective raw materials.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions


Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.
Synonyms:

CAS: