Description

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It is highly valued in the cosmetic and personal care industry for its antioxidant, skin brightening, and anti-aging properties, making it a beneficial component in various skincare and anti-aging products.

Chemical Composition and Structure
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is composed of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) esterified with isopalmitic acid. This structure provides enhanced stability and allows it to be soluble in oils, which improves its penetration into the skin and makes it suitable for a variety of formulations. The specific composition includes:

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Known for its powerful antioxidant properties, it helps protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors.
Isopalmitic Acid: A fatty acid that enhances the stability and solubility of ascorbic acid in oil-based formulations.
Physical Properties
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate typically appears as a light yellow to pale amber liquid with a mild odor. It is oil-soluble, making it easy to incorporate into various oil-based and emulsion formulations.

Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications
Antioxidant: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate provides strong antioxidant benefits, protecting the skin from free radical damage and reducing the signs of aging.

Skin Brightening: This ingredient helps to brighten the skin by inhibiting melanin production, reducing the appearance of dark spots and promoting a more even skin tone.

Anti-Aging: It stimulates collagen synthesis, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

UV Protection: While not a sunscreen, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate can enhance the skin’s defense against UV damage when used in conjunction with sunscreens.

Skin Conditioning: It helps to condition the skin, improving its texture and overall appearance. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Stability: Due to its stable nature, it retains its efficacy in various formulations and under different storage conditions.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types. As a derivative of Vitamin C, it poses minimal risk to the environment when disposed of properly. Utilizing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate also supports sustainable practices by enhancing the efficacy and stability of Vitamin C in formulations, reducing the need for frequent re-formulation.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions


Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
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