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admin (19653 pt) 2026-Jan-09 18:58

Prunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract – INCI functions, identifiers (CAS/EC), composition, cosmetic uses, and formulation notes

Prunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract
Fruit extract of Prunus amygdalus dulcis – family Rosaceae

Synonyms: sweet almond fruit extract, almond fruit extract
INCI / functions: skin conditioning, hair 


Definition

Prunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract is an extract obtained from the fruit of sweet almond, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (family Rosaceae), typically via solvent extraction (often aqueous or hydro-glycolic systems, depending on the commercial grade). From a compositional standpoint, it is a complex mixture: depending on the extracted fraction and standardization, it may contain carbohydrate components (e.g., soluble sugars), phenolic fractions (polyphenols, variable level), organic acids, and other minor botanical fractions compatible with the extraction system. In cosmetics it is mainly used as a conditioning ingredient, supporting skin feel and improving combability and sensory performance on hair.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) is one of the most popular crops worldwide and belongs to the Rosaceae family. Photochemical analysis revealed a number of compounds beneficial to health: Phenolic acids (hydrobenzoic acids), polyphenolic acids (ellagic acid, gallic acid, caffeic acid), isoflavones, anthocyanins (cyanidin and delphinidin), bioflavonoids, flavanols (epicatechin and procyanidins), flavonol glycosides (kaempferol, quercetin, isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside), triterpenes, tannins, all with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.

Main uses:

Medical

Clinical studies have shown properties in counteracting some major diseases, reducing oxidative stress, glucose homeostasis, protection against cardiovascular risk, neuroprotection. It also reduces the symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome.

Cosmetics

Hair conditioning agent. A large number of ingredients with specific purposes can co-exist in a hair shampoo: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, mattifying agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersing agents that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioners includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment by restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants.

Identification data and specifications

IdentifierValue
INCI namePrunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract
Preparation typeextract (solvent extract)
Originbotanical
CAS number90320-37-9
EC/EINECS number291-063-5


Key constituents

ClassTypical componentsTechnical note
Carbohydrate fractionsugars and water-soluble componentsmay influence sensory profile and potential tack at higher use levels
Phenolic fractionpolyphenols (variable level)depends on matrix and solvent; can affect color/stability
Minor botanical fractionsorganic acids and minor compoundsbatch variability: manage via supplier specifications


Functional role and technical clarifications

FunctionWhat it does in the formulaOperational note
Skin conditioningsupports maintaining skin in good conditioneffect depends on vehicle and concentration
Hair conditioningimproves combability and sensory feel on hairuseful in synergy with compatible conditioning polymers


Formulation compatibility

In practice, compatibility depends primarily on the extract carrier (water, glycols, mixtures) and the solids content. In O/W emulsions and aqueous gels, the extract can be added into the water phase or post-addition (per supplier guidance), checking: color stability, potential increase in tack at higher use levels, and compatibility with the preservative system.

In “clear” systems (transparent gels, clear cleansers) it may increase the risk of haze if the grade contains higher solids or if the system ionic strength/pH is not optimized. It is recommended to verify stability over 24–48 hours, thermal cycles, and compatibility with fragrances and pH-sensitive actives.

Use guidelines (indicative)

ApplicationTypical rangeTechnical note
Leave-on (creams/serums/lotions)0.2–3.0%evaluate color and sensoriality
Rinse-off (cleansers/shampoo)0.5–5.0%verify clarity and preservation robustness
Conditioning hair care0.2–3.0%synergistic with compatible conditioning polymers


Typical applications

  • Skin care products aimed at conditioning support and cosmetic comfort.

  • Hair care formulas (shampoos, conditioners, masks) to support combability and a softer feel.

  • Cleansers and gels where a botanical conditioning extract is desired (after verifying clarity/stability).

Quality, grades and specifications

QC topicWhat to verify
IdentityINCI consistency and batch traceability
Solids/activessolids %, carrier (water/glycols), batch-to-batch repeatability
Sensory profilecolor/odor and changes under heat/light
Microbiologylimits and compatibility with the finished-product preservative system
Impuritiesinsolubles, metals (if required), process residues per CoA


Safety, regulatory and environment

As a botanical cosmetic extract, the appropriate safety approach is the finished product assessment (use scenario, population, exposure). Operationally, the most relevant considerations are: (i) potential irritation in sensitive individuals or on compromised skin (formula- and dose-dependent), (ii) microbiological control (aqueous/high-solids extracts require preservative attention), and (iii) odor/color stability over time. Environmentally, impact is primarily linked to organic load and process effluent management; apply good manufacturing practice and local regulatory requirements for wastewater handling.

Formulation troubleshooting

IssueLikely causeRecommended action
Haze in clear systemssolids/carrier, pH/electrolytes, polymer incompatibilityreduce dose, switch grade, optimize pH and rheology
Darkening/color shiftoxidation of phenolic fractions, light/heatbarrier packaging, compatible antioxidants, reduce dose
Tackinesshigh carbohydrate fraction or high dosagereduce dose, rebalance humectants and oil phase
Microbiological instabilityinsufficient preservation or high initial bioburdenstrengthen preservative system, tighten raw material specs, run challenge testing


Conclusion

Prunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract is a Prunus amygdalus dulcis fruit extract used mainly for skin conditioning and hair conditioning. Selecting the right grade (carrier/solids), validating preservation, and controlling color and clarity (where required) are the key factors for stable, repeatable formulation performance.

Mini-glossary

TermMeaningNote
INCIInternational cosmetic ingredient nomenclatureused for labeling
Solvent extractextract obtained using a solvent systemwater/glycols/alcohols depending on grade
Skin conditioningmaintaining skin in good conditioncosmetic function
Hair conditioningimproving combability/sensory feel on haircosmetic function
GMPGood Manufacturing Practiceprocess quality-control standard