Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Retired) is the product obtained by the reaction of palmitic acid with either a tripeptide consisting of gly-his-lys, or a hexapeptide consisting of val-gly-val-ala-pro-gly. The INCI Name, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, was originally developed in 1994 and was designated with a retired status in 2013. During the interim period, trade name assignments formerly published under Palmitoyl Oligopeptide will be retained in the retired monograph and also published with the new names Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 or Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Retired) consists of:

• Palmitic acid: a fatty acid that attaches to the peptide.
• Tripeptide: a peptide composed of glycine (gly), histidine (his), and lysine (lys) or
• Hexapeptide: a peptide composed of valine (val), glycine (gly), valine (val), alanine (ala), proline (pro), and glycine (gly).

Physical Properties

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Retired) presents the following characteristics:

Appearance: typically a white or light-colored powder or a viscous, clear solution.

Solubility: soluble in water and various oils due to its modified structure.

Stability: the stability of the peptide is enhanced by the modification with palmitic acid, making it suitable for various cosmetic formulations.

Production Process 

The production process for Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Retired) involves:

• Synthesis: the peptide is synthesized by combining palmitic acid with either a tripeptide (gly-his-lys) or a hexapeptide (val-gly-val-ala-pro-gly).
• Purification: the resulting peptide mixture is purified to remove any by-products or impurities.
• Formulation: the purified Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is incorporated into cosmetic formulations such as creams, serums, and lotions.
• Quality Control: the final product undergoes thorough testing to ensure purity, efficacy, and safety in cosmetic applications.

Applications

Medical: typically not used for medical purposes; primarily focused on cosmetic applications.

Cosmetic: used in anti-aging products and skin rejuvenation treatments. It helps improve skin texture, reduce signs of aging, and enhance overall skin health.

Other: mainly used in skincare products to support skin appearance and function.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Skin conditioning agent - Miscellaneous. This ingredient has the task of modifying the condition of the skin when it is damaged or dry by reducing its flakiness and restoring its elasticity.
• Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.

CAS   171263-26-6 147732-56-7

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Retired) is considered safe for use in cosmetics when applied according to industry guidelines. The production process aims to minimize environmental impact, and the final product is subject to rigorous safety and quality testing. Proper disposal methods are followed to ensure minimal environmental impact.