Glyceryl Undecylenate is an ester derived from glycerin and undecylenic acid, a fatty acid known for its antifungal properties. This ingredient is recognized for its multifunctional capabilities in cosmetic formulations, serving as an emulsifier, skin-conditioning agent, and preservative. Glyceryl Undecylenate helps to stabilize oil and water mixtures while providing moisturizing benefits. Its antifungal properties also make it beneficial in formulations aimed at maintaining skin health and preventing microbial growth.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Glyceryl Undecylenate consists of:
- Glycerin: A humectant that attracts moisture and helps maintain skin hydration.
- Undecylenic Acid: A fatty acid that possesses antifungal properties and enhances the emulsifying capabilities of the ingredient.
- Ester Linkage: The combination of glycerin and undecylenic acid through an ester bond contributes to its functional properties.
This unique composition allows Glyceryl Undecylenate to provide both emulsifying and conditioning effects in cosmetic formulations.
Physical Properties
Appearance: Typically a clear to pale yellow liquid.
Solubility: Soluble in oils and fats; limited solubility in water.
pH: Generally neutral, making it compatible with a wide range of cosmetic formulations.
Odor: Mild, often with a slightly fatty scent.
Stability: Stable under normal storage conditions; should be protected from excessive heat and moisture.
Production Process
Synthesis: Glyceryl Undecylenate is produced through the esterification of glycerin and undecylenic acid, typically using heat and catalysts to facilitate the reaction.
Purification: The resulting product is purified to remove any unreacted materials and by-products, ensuring a high-quality ingredient.
Formulation: Purified Glyceryl Undecylenate is then incorporated into various cosmetic products to enhance their emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties.
Applications
Medical: Occasionally used in topical formulations for its soothing properties and ability to prevent microbial growth on the skin.
Cosmetics: Commonly found in lotions, creams, hair conditioners, and deodorants for its emulsifying, moisturizing, and antifungal benefits. It enhances the texture and sensory experience of products.
INCI Functions:
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsifiers have the property to reduce the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improve emulsion stability and also directly influence the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating their filmometric performance.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Industrial Uses: May be employed in formulations requiring effective emulsification and stabilization properties.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Glyceryl Undecylenate is generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetics when applied according to recommended guidelines. It is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin.
Responsible sourcing and formulation practices are essential to ensure that the ingredient is free from harmful contaminants and produced sustainably.
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Molecular Formula C14H26O4
Molecular Weight 258.35 g/mol
CAS 62285-15-8 123759-97-7
UNII B68LJT9544
DTXSID10432858
EC Number
Synonyms:
Glyceryl 1-undecylenate
