Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate is a biotechnological ingredient obtained from the fermentation of Camellia sinensis (green tea) seed oil using the yeast Pseudozyma epicola. This filtrate is renowned for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and skin-conditioning properties, making it beneficial for various cosmetic formulations.
Chemical Composition and Structure
The chemical composition of Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate includes:
- Fatty Acids: Derived from Camellia sinensis seed oil, primarily oleic acid and linoleic acid, providing moisturizing benefits.
- Antioxidants: Compounds produced during fermentation that enhance the protective properties of the extract.
- Polyphenols: Such as catechins from green tea, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
Structurally, this filtrate contains a complex mixture of bioactive compounds that work synergistically to provide beneficial effects on the skin.
Physical Properties
- Appearance: Typically a light yellow to amber liquid.
- Solubility: Soluble in water and oil, making it versatile for various formulations.
- pH: Generally neutral to slightly acidic, depending on the fermentation process.
- Odor: Mild, natural aroma characteristic of fermented oils and green tea.
- Stability: Stable under normal storage conditions but should be kept away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Production Process
- Fermentation: Camellia sinensis seed oil is subjected to fermentation using the yeast Pseudozyma epicola, which enhances the oil's bioactive properties.
- Filtration: After fermentation, the mixture is filtered to obtain the active filtrate, removing yeast residues and impurities.
- Formulation: The filtrate is incorporated into cosmetic and personal care products, often combined with other ingredients to enhance performance and stability.
Applications
- Medical: Used in some formulations for its skin-nourishing and protective properties.
- Cosmetics: Commonly included in moisturizers, serums, and hair care products for its hydrating and antioxidant effects.
INCI Functions
Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.
Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
- Industrial Uses: Limited applications, primarily in natural product formulations.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate is generally regarded as safe for topical application in cosmetics when used according to recommended guidelines. However, individuals with sensitivities to fermented ingredients should exercise caution. Responsible sourcing and fermentation practices are essential to ensure that the filtrate is free from harmful contaminants and produced sustainably.
