Piazza San Giovanni, Turin

Where Roman Turin meets the Cathedral and the Shroud

In the heart of Turin’s historic centre, only a few steps from Piazza Castello, Piazza San Giovanni brings together more than two thousand years of urban history. The Renaissance cathedral, the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, Savoy residences, the Roman Theatre and the archaeological route leading to the Palatine Gate all converge around this relatively compact square.

History

The square occupies the northern sector of ancient Augusta Taurinorum, close to the Roman gate that connected the city with the surrounding territory, the Dora River and the main trading routes. This position made it an important passage for people and merchandise travelling towards Porta Palazzo.

During the Middle Ages, the area acquired growing religious importance. Before the present cathedral was built, three early Christian churches dedicated to Saint Saviour, the Virgin Mary and Saint John the Baptist stood here. They were demolished in the late fifteenth century to make way for a single new cathedral.

The present Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist, built between 1491 and 1498 and traditionally attributed to Meo del Caprino, transformed the square into Turin’s principal religious and ceremonial space. Its restrained Renaissance façade still provides a striking contrast with the surrounding Baroque and modern buildings.

In 1706, following the Savoy victory in the Siege of Turin, the square hosted celebrations attended by Victor Amadeus II and Prince Eugene of Savoy. A solemn Te Deum was sung inside the cathedral to give thanks for the liberation of the city.

Public exhibitions of the Shroud of Turin, particularly from the late nineteenth century onwards, also turned the square into a gathering place for pilgrims from around the world.

During the Napoleonic period, the square was temporarily renamed Place du Marché, recalling its commercial function. Markets selling poultry, vegetables and other produce were once regularly held here.

Architecture and urban transformations

Piazza San Giovanni does not possess the uniform theatrical appearance of some other squares in Turin. Its character instead derives from the encounter between different periods and architectural languages.

The main side is dominated by the white marble façade of the cathedral, accompanied by its brick bell tower. Behind it rises the complex dome of the Chapel of the Holy Shroud, designed in the seventeenth century by Guarino Guarini as both a symbolic and physical connection between the cathedral and the Royal Palace.

On the side facing Piazza Castello stands Palazzo Chiablese, a Savoy residence with an austere brick façade. The portico beside the palace provides a direct connection between Piazza San Giovanni, the Royal Square and Piazza Castello.

Opposite the cathedral is the modern building designed by Mario Passanti and completed in 1965. Popularly nicknamed the “Palazzaccio”, it replaced the seventeenth-century Palazzo Richelmy, which was demolished in 1937. Its controversial presence documents the radical urban transformations of the twentieth century.

The eastern arcades, brick surfaces, pale marble of the cathedral and modern architecture consequently produce an unusual panorama: less harmonious, perhaps, but exceptionally rich in historical layers.

What to see

The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist

Turin’s cathedral is one of the city’s few important examples of Renaissance architecture. Its interior contains artworks, chapels and the place where the Shroud of Turin is preserved, although the relic is not normally visible to the public.

The Chapel of the Holy Shroud

A Baroque masterpiece by Guarino Guarini, the chapel stands between the cathedral and the Royal Palace. Its dome, constructed through a vertiginous sequence of arches, creates the illusion of a progressive ascent towards the light. Following the 1997 fire and an extensive restoration, it reopened in 2018 and now forms part of the Royal Museums itinerary.

The cathedral bell tower

The massive brick tower predates the Renaissance cathedral. Its lower section dates from the fifteenth century, while the upper crown was modified in the eighteenth century to a design by Filippo Juvarra. When accessible through the Diocesan Museum, it offers a distinctive view over the historic centre.

Palazzo Chiablese

This Savoy residence occupies the southern side of the square. It was renovated by Benedetto Alfieri during the eighteenth century and housed several members of the royal family. Margherita of Savoy, the future first queen of unified Italy, was born here in 1851.

The Roman Theatre

Behind the cathedral are the remains of the theatre of ancient Augusta Taurinorum. Rediscovered between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the archaeological structures reveal how much of the Roman city survives beneath the later Savoy buildings.

The Palatine Gate

Continuing towards Piazza Cesare Augusto leads to the Palatine Gate, one of Turin’s best-preserved Roman monuments. Its visual connection with Piazza San Giovanni makes the square an ideal starting point for exploring Roman Turin.

Cultural importance

Piazza San Giovanni brings together Turin’s three principal historical identities:

• the Roman city, represented by the Roman Theatre and nearby Palatine Gate;
• the Savoy capital, expressed through its connection with the Royal Palace and Palazzo Chiablese;
• the religious city, represented by the cathedral, the Chapel of the Holy Shroud and major diocesan ceremonies.

The square is therefore more than a passageway. It provides a visual summary of Turin’s transformation from a Roman settlement into a dynastic capital and modern European city.

Visitor experience

The square can be crossed quickly, but its perspectives deserve careful observation. The most evocative viewpoint is in front of the cathedral, where the Renaissance façade, bell tower, dome of the Chapel of the Holy Shroud and Savoy buildings can all be seen together.

Visitors can then continue towards the Roman Theatre and Palatine Gate or walk through the portico beside Palazzo Chiablese to reach the Royal Square and Piazza Castello.

Recommended time: 20–40 minutes for the square alone; 1–2 hours including the cathedral, archaeological area and surroundings.

Best time to visit: early morning or late afternoon, when the light enhances the cathedral façade and the square is usually less crowded.

Accessibility

The square is freely accessible and predominantly level. Some historic paving surfaces may be uneven for visitors with reduced mobility, wheelchairs or pushchairs.

Accessibility inside the cathedral, Diocesan Museum, bell tower and Royal Museums should be checked separately, as entrances and visitor routes may be subject to restrictions.

Getting there

Piazza San Giovanni is located in the historic centre, immediately north of Piazza Castello. It is easily reached on foot from:

• Piazza Castello, through the Royal Square;
• Via Garibaldi;
• Porta Palazzo and Piazza della Repubblica;
• Via XX Settembre;
• Via Accademia delle Scienze.

The most convenient public transport stops are located around Piazza Castello, Via XX Settembre and Porta Palazzo.

Useful information

Access to the square: free at all times.

Admission to monuments: opening hours and tickets vary for the cathedral, Diocesan Museum, bell tower and Royal Museums.

Photography: freely permitted outdoors; restrictions may apply inside religious and museum buildings.

Clothing: respectful clothing is recommended when entering the cathedral.

Strengths

• Exceptional concentration of Roman, Renaissance and Baroque heritage.
• Presence of the cathedral and sites connected with the Shroud of Turin.
• Immediate connection with Piazza Castello and the Royal Museums.
• Free access to the urban space.
• Excellent starting point for exploring Roman Turin.

Points to consider

• The square is less uniform and theatrical than other major squares in Turin.
• Traffic along Via XX Settembre can affect the atmosphere.
• The Shroud is not normally on public display.
• The individual monuments do not necessarily share the same opening hours.
• Some archaeological remains can only be viewed from outside or through museum routes.

Overall assessment

8.5/10

Piazza San Giovanni is one of Turin’s most historically concentrated places. Its appeal does not depend on perfect architectural harmony, but on its extraordinary accumulation of evidence: ancient Rome, Christianity, the Savoy dynasty, Baroque architecture and twentieth-century transformations all coexist within the same space.

Mini glossary

Ostension: the solemn public display of a relic.

Shroud of Turin: the cloth preserved in Turin Cathedral which, according to Christian tradition, wrapped the body of Jesus.

Te Deum: an ancient Christian hymn of thanksgiving.

Brickwork: construction made from fired clay bricks.

Urban stratification: the coexistence or superimposition of buildings and remains from different historical periods.